Liquidous LineΩAfter a hearty roast dinner courtesy of Matt and Rach (and a fair amount of rain) on Friday night the team (Derek, James, ZacAtak™ and Matt) made a late start to Wuthering Heights on Saturday. There they climbed some stuff. James warmed-up the mighty Okinawa Steel, while Derek re-repeated Oren Ishi’i (despite his spotters saying enough was enough and we need more than one pad and he wasn’t able to return for the third ascent). ZacAtak™ repeated Derek’s latest addition to the area Sloper Syndicate (V9ish), which probably involves slopers. The double-mantle problem to the right of Texas Chainsaw Massacre received some serious attention (including a spectacular fall from Matt). On the way back down the hill they stopped at The Vostinar Sloper Traverse #54, a.k.a. Powerlicious. Derek and James repeated this problem which is described as “a slopey traverse”.

Sunday dawned with an enlarged posse for a three-car attack on Flock Hill. Matt and Rach (no she didn’t climb, have you SEEN her finger?) brought out Rowan and Mark Pugh-Williams (who will henceforth be referred to as ‘Pug’ to avoid any immature toilet humour) who are two of the older geckos (do older flying geckos become Tuataras?). Pug and Jamie Vinton-Boot both climbed Porky, causing it to be downgraded to V7 and V6 respectively. Finally, to the utter embarrassment of Kester Brown (who was off being poncey) I climbed it, causing a further downgrade to V5 (did I mention ZacAtak™ flashed it AND the topout was wet?). Shortly after this something actually happened, with Derek making the first ascent of a project up the hill a bit, via some cool slopers, a single upside-down pocket and some body contortions.

ZacAtak™ continued his quota bagging with an ascent of the sideways daze problem Right of Validation. He had some goes on Liquidous Line, his gentle slab/groove which only looks like a fearsome highball project (Kay, we know you are reading), but needs a bit more work on this one. At this point I did some further research into CSS, and expanded my theorising on the three most commonly experienced forms of spooge (hot spooge, cold spooge and I’m watching a scary climbing movie spooge[also known to civilians as 'job interview spooge']) Later on, James and Derek tried to repeat Derek’s old problem Non-sequitur but neither had any success and this problem may be upgraded again (it was originally V8, now it looks more like 10).  Meanwhile Pug showed he has the requisite physical attributes by battling his way up Hipster at the end of the day. ZacAtak™ also climbed this problem and James pulled his quota out of the bag with a last gasp second ascent of the low-start to this problem (grade unknown, but it’s probably harder than V5 I reckon). Then it got dark.Ω

Superman IndeedΩ ZacAtak™, fresh from his sodden demolition of the Cave, has made an ascent of Sharma’s Superman (V10) at Flock Hill. The lad is unstoppable. He described his ascent as “just fulfilling my daily quota.”  He and James were left with a bitter taste in their mouths however, as they arrived home to find their pad burgled. LAME!

Meanwhile, Rach the Muss gained an elegant ascent of Mullet Arete, keeping her spotters interested the whole way. See the video below.

In the first ascent category, Derek wandered around trying to find a trench to wedge himself into, but eventually found a new squeeze. He made juice out of the slopey arete left of Rastamonkey (on the Leopard boulder). Name unknown. Go try it and give it a name yourself, that’s what Stoo would do (or me for that matter, though I wouldn’t even have to climb it…) Ω

Mullet Arete, Flock Hill from derek thatcher on Vimeo.

General MayhemΩ I was going to write a witty entry discussing the way Wookies hide behind mountains of fur in order to never truly reveal their naked selves. Then I was going to segue into some jarbled nonsense about climbing (yes ‘jarbled’ is a word, if it’s not in your dictionary it is because your dictionary is faulty and you should burn it immediately). Unfortunately JP has stolen my intended title and thus thwarted my entire enterprise. Luckily, I’ve come up with an alternative approach. I decided its time to reveal the biggest secret of elite bouldering in New Zealand.

I’ve been noticing for a while that all my bouldering compadres have brown stained teeth and stinky breath. When I quiz them about this, they say that they chew tobacco. While this seems like a simple and innocent explanation, the lack of chewing, the lack of actual tobacco and the lack of osophogeal cancer eventually led me to doubt their stories.  In an epiphanical avalanche of clinically sharp comprehension I realised the answer wasn’t chewing tobacco, it was coffee. Everyone knows that coffee is cheating, yet it seems people have been slurping it down in highly concentrated amounts! Scandalous.

On Saturday I was slightly less psyched than the others at Flock Hill, but I was also the only one not using metabolism-boosting-cheat-juice, so my ascents were the only ones that counted. Fortunately for the others my ascents were far from impressive while theirs were very close to, if not overlapping with, impressive. For instance, JP warmed up with an ascent of She-Male V8, before finding success on Monster Society of Evil V9 and on the toilet (Los Baños V7). Nice work.

My success was limited to Disconnect, an innocuous V7 traverse that many people campus. Having polystyrene prosthetics for fingers, campusing isn’t really an option. I have never been able to make any progress on the crux of this problem. However, approximately one attempt after finding an alternative crux hold in the form of a gaston I was able to use my right shoulder (adamantium rather than polystyrene) and the problem became a non-event. Much more impressively, Harold ‘H’ Hadler made a quick ascent of the extended version of this same problem. Does anyone else think he is Dave Graham in disguise?

Peter Allison also sent, gaining an ascent of General Mayhem V10 in classic vibrator style. This shortly after trying to flash She-Male as a warm-up and earn himself $40. I’m not sure if this was JP and DT trying to re-injure the Peter by making bets with him about pulling really hard as a warm-up? That’s not cool guys. Everyone knows Allison is like a puppy on P, throw a ball and he’s going to chase it. That’s why he’s spent 17/18ths of his climbing career a crippled mess. He did it third go.

An early departure to return JP to the airport left the others trying Acapulco, before cheerleading Pete on NZ’s hardest problem, the beautifically-titled Middle Trifecta.

Sunday arrived and with global coffee shortages peaking and JP off battling Seamonsters, Flock Hill’s population density was somewhat reduced. I was there though, propping up pads and distributing chalk amongst the boulders in an egalitarian fashion. The warm weather meant a significant decrease in snow quantities and the boulders look set to finally return to normal winter condition. While there was a lack of sendage on Sunday, progress was made on a number of problems, with Pete having several very close attempts on Middle Trifecta. While James took pretty photos of clouds and ZacAtak™ looked for coffee dispensing machines I managed not one but three classic patented Gomez ’snatch defeat from the claws of victory’ moments on the left Trifecta. Dan put in an outstanding amount of spotting effort, but when it came his time to shine on General Mayhem his coffee had clearly worn off.

Chewing tobacco…it doesn’t make sense. Ω