Ω Matt ‘I’m no slabby poofter’ Tait, apparently absent from the scene for a while, is on the comeback (at least, on the 8a.nu comeback) with a recently logged ascent of Boss Tanaka v10 at Wuthering Heights Ω

Ω It seems that the Wairere boulders may finally be open for climbing.  Or perhaps not?

http://mojozone.co.nz/forum/wairere-boulders-0

Somebody from Auckland (James FM?) should get there, quick smart Ω

Ω Following up Regan’s comment posted earlier today, we have sourced a report on James FM’s recent trip to Castle Hill.  The original trip report appears on his blog, but we struggled with some of the text so here is a reproduction of that report, translated into French using the Google translation tool, and then translated back into England:

“Travel Castle Hill

So, after spending eight days in the castle hill, I can say I feel like I’ve been ten rounds with Mike Tyson biting the ear less. Among the eight days I had two solid days of rain that has totally sucked ass, but I stayed six days of amazing climbing. My first objective was to complete many quality problems that had already considered the most: The Air Below (V6), Beautiful Edges (V4), Tupi Masters (V6), Limestone Orgasm (V7 ) Philtrum (V7) and many more blocks V6 and less.

My second purpose of the trip was to send a few problems that are not my limit, but have been hard for me, and I managed to check some of these off: Fidel Castro’s (V9), Dr. Manhattan (V9) , Afterburner (V9)?, Eclipse (V9) but I think I started a grip on this person?, Millennium (V9)?, Camp America (V9/10), and finally the super reachy Che Guerva (V8) .

My ultimate goal was to try to send something really difficult for me, and I found two projects that I attempted Interstella Overdrive (v10/11), and Oren Oshi (v11). Oren was the first of two i tried, and very quickly had pulled the bottom section back and raised on the coat. Unfortunately I fell three times the mantle and, finally, my spotter (Amy Nathan) said I had enough and we need more of a pad. I never had the chance to revisit the problem and therefore could not claim the ascent Blade 3

Interstella then came and I felt like I confident had enough of the road nearly a year earlier. I quickly found a sequence, and catching hold jugish knew at the end of the problem. The only problem I had on Interstella, which was my final fall down is that I was super extened when I caught the last block. Due to the fact I was so stretched out on the final movement, my feet slipped from the hook and I heal swug violently off and could not keep. During a period of three hours, until the sun went down, I managed to fall several points in time curseing hill flock, God, and nothing else I could think of time. I found myself packing up this defeat and didn’t have to try the problem again, LAME!

Besides the issues I mentioned as my projects I also tried several other hard lines, they were as follows: Captain Crush (V10/11), Monster Society of Evil (V9/10) When The Attack Animals (V10) and Brutus (V10). I can tell you that these problems kick the shit out of me … and I had to leave with my tail between his legs each! I also tried several V7s coat on the hill of spit and got cock slapped by each of them.

I can also announce that Amy was an amazing week too. She mounted several days younger than me, but still managed to complete a personal best V6 Spittle Hill. But this was not the full story … Amy has also managed in one day two V4, V5 and V6 in a … She was super happy!

Throughout my trip was cool, short but cool. I want to thank Bevan Hadler and Kat to leave Amy and i crash on the bed for one week, and to lend us the car! Smart guys!

I would say that, I think the locals CHCH, and the herd and people should stop ranking Wuthering there are problems, but nothing V6. Basically, it is because they still seem low grade every problem that is never implemented, and genreally unnecessarily. I’m just saying any degree V6 now rather slow sand bag of shit all.

Peace!”

If nothing else, there is some interesting grading matters arising from that report.  Discuss below as you feel appropriate. Ω

Ω Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott, 14 or 15yrs old, has climbed Pumping Iron V9 in the Bronx Cave, Turakirae Head.  He promptly declared the problem to be soft, which makes it his first soft V9.  As far as I can tell, he’s the youngest person to climb this (almost) grade in New Zealand.  Yet another Wellington climber leading the way! Ω

Ω Some reading for those with spare time:

New V16? from P-Rob - click here.

Boulderer goes to Spain to try route, doesn’t try it - click here.

Many things in America are inflating, including V-grades - click here.

And finally, another gem from Jens:

“Golfers are using different clubs for every challenge but climbers mainly use the same shoe on the slab and roof cruxes. In general, hard shoes should be used on small holds but on big features, a soft shoe will increase the possibilities to hook and pull in with your toes. Stiff performance shoes have a toe-hook angle but on big holds, a soft shoe is better, if your toes are trained. A climber who always are using hard shoes, will not directely feel the pull in difference with a soft shoe, as these muscles, actually never have been used.”

Cracker! Ω