dsc05728Ω Rumours are flying through cyber-space that Stoo Kurth (aka the Beast Kong) has bagged the first ascent of the infamous Lock-That-Crimp-Down-To-Your-Ankle-Arete-Porject, at Flock Hill. Sick! Stay tuned for updates Ω

Pyrogen V7Ω The Hogan Boulder, not to be confused with Hulk Hogan (the now-wrinkled and just-ever-so-slightly-sad wrestling star) or the bouldering area in North Otago, is a delightful little boulder atop a small moraine mound proximate to Arrowtown. Schist it may be, but not the kind that makes your pulleys scream, for this bloc has been lovingly polished, buffed and spit-shined by a glacial presence that vanished long before the combustion engine was conceived (perhaps the dinosaurs used a lot of hydrocarbons?). The result is slopers, slopers and more slopers. So many slopers. Really good slopers.

Lakes District denizens, Thomas Van Den Berg and Sam Anderson-Mangai [now there’s a good driving game – see how many times you can say those names when driving across the Rakaia River] have developed a good clutch of problems, with an average grade of V7. Access is an easy stroll from the car, although farmer permission is required, and the problems all follow obvious lines of holds (mostly from comfy sit starts). All in all, it’s a great spot for a evening session – the only downside is that there aren’t more boulders thereabouts. Then again, maybe that’s a good thing. Ω

Steeper than I remember...Well-known Euro hotshots Fred Rouhling and Romain Desgranges spent some time at Castle Hill in December. Reports suggest that Fred bagged the hardest problems known to guidebooks in the area; Achilles Last Stand V12 and Ristretto V11. Romain also seems to have climbed Ristretto and African Man Horse V11. More to come…