Brooklyn BouldersΩ Paul’s Boutique.  It’s in Brooklyn.  Just like this boulder.

Thanks to Digby Shaw for the eye candy!

PS: Remember that permission is required to climb at the Brooklyn Boulders (call or send a text message  (03 5268234 or 021 2548024 or 021 1368993)) Ω

Ω James FM has a love-hate relationship with New Zealand’s bouldering media.  We love him, he hates us.  Or at least he used to.  Now, he’s joined an elite group of internet-stalking-climbing-gossip-hounds by creating his own climbing blog: Primoris Climbing.  Here you will find news, views and poos about climbing in the Big Smoke (aka Auckland).  More helpfully, you’ll discover that James himself recently dispatched a long-time boulder project at the Mt Eden Quarry - originally dubbed the Alpha Male project, now known as The Professional V9/10. Sounds like the hardest thing going at the crag now, except (perhaps) the Go Danny traverse Ω

img_7865Ω While Stoo Kurth and others have been toiling away on the pebbles of Aotearoa, the Powerband editorial team (and a few radshots [Ed: that's a compound abbreviation for rad hotshots]) have been State-side checking out North American pebbles (hereinafter referred to as “NAPs”).

Pete “Radshot” Allison was dispatched to Hueco Tanks as a one-man advance assault team in December (actually he was sent in late October but was quarantined at LAX for over a month due a mixup between him and giant Colombian mole).  Notwithstanding his totally broken leg, his Walmart tent and the distracting attention of an amorous Javelina, Pete still crushed some NAPs, including a mucho-respecto ascent of Power of Landjager V11.

Team Hobbit (Derek Thatcher and James Morris) was dispatched next, this time to Chattanoogawoogawooga in the South East.  They arrived to the coldest January since the last coldest January; Morris later said “There were some really cold days.  And some other cold days too”.  In spite of the weather, and despite being achingly short, both climbers acquitted themselves well on the sandstone NAPs.  Derek climbed The Shield V12, reportedly also flashing V10 and climbing V11 that day.  James climbed Golden Harvest V10 and Western Gold V11 - clearly he has a thing for the bling!

The H Team moved on to Hueco Tanks at the beginning of February.  More NAPs were had, including team ascents of Dark Age V10/11, Schwerer Gustov V10, Loaded With Power V10 and Loaded Direct V11.  Thatcher also climbed Power Of Silence V10, The Scream V10 (”That’s about V2″) and Full Service V10.

The Powerband editorial team finally dispatched themselves, along with Castle Wall legends James Perry and James Knapp, to Hueco Tanks in mid-February for two weeks of “rampage”.  Traveling under the pseudonym “Big Tony” so as to avoid attracting attention, Tom Hoyle crushed spans and annihilated NAPs wherever he roamed.  Standout NAPage from the Gomezatron included Hector V9, Fern Roof V9 (”No knee bar fag beta for me”) and Dean’s Journey V9.  I have no aversion to “fag beta”, but I prefer “tricky ho’ beta” where I can get.  With whithered arms and a bung finger, THB was my savour on the trip, with THB NAP ascents of Loaded With Tricky Ho Beta V10, The Tricky Ho Scream V10, Les Fleurs de Tricky Ho V9 and other such malarkey.  All of which I climbed in my “slab climbing shoes” (to quote Dave Kopp), which just proves that big arms and down-curved toeboxes are no match for an old man with tricky ho beta. Over and out Ω

joeykindkid

You know you want to be like him.

ΩOur motivation survey is now closed. I have analysed the results using a secret NASA supercomputer and can offer the following conclusions.

Of the 50 responses, 68% of people had the primary motivation of improving their 8a scorecard. You might think ‘Hey wait a minute… that wasn’t even an option!’ but you have in fact been cleverly outmanoeuvred by yours truly. You see, despite anonymity it was apparent people would still lie and select another option rather than admit the horrible petty truth, that they are slaves to Jens Larsen and his number-crunching. To get around this, we did some ‘in-depth psychological profiling’ of a number of ‘volunteer’ climbers (this was made possible by the lovely people at Guantanamo Bay Military Prison) to find what alternative categories they would pick to replicate the 8a tick if it weren’t present. So, if you voted for ‘climbing as hard as possible’ (14 of you did) you admitted that all you really care about is numbers, big numbers. How else is hard climbing defined?

Another 13 selected ‘having fun with your mates on the rock’ which was the obvious ‘red herring’ option. Nobody is actually motivated in this way, we all know that climbers don’t have ‘mates’ or even friends. Climbers just have other climbers that they go climbing with, these people aren’t friends, they are enemies that need to be burned off and defeated on 8a. As the saying goes: keep your friends close, but because you have none, keep your enemies close and pretend they are friends. What better way to beat someone on 8a than by sabotaging their climbing from close range? People use all sorts of tricks for this; spooging up holds, anti-beta, mixing chalk with lubricant, bad shoe recommendations, telling stories about someone falling off the top and breaking their leg, stealing their lunch, tipping out all their water (this doesn’t work on JP),  telling people that unclimbed blank faces are Derek’s new V10, etc, etc.  This obviously false option was included due to the psychologically proven fact that, when given a list of options that doesn’t actually include their first choice, some people choose an option that is obviously false through protest. Clear evidence of this is people watching Adam Sandler movies. Nobody would actually chose to do so, it’s just the movie they wanted to see wasn’t on, so they made a protest choice of such ridiculous bad taste everyone would know what was going on. You 13 people are horrible despicable liars who are kidding yourselves.

Six people were honest and admitted that their primary motivation was burning people off. You are lumped in with those above, because we all know that it’s hard to burn people off in person, so allegiance to 8a works well as you can track what other people are doing and lie on your scorecard so you are always ahead of them. You can also go back and downgrade the problems they have just done that you had already done, thereby making them look bad. Very clever.

Another person joins this group through selecting ‘getting mentioned on Powerband’. They may have thought they were being funny by selecting this. But it was only funny as a second ‘red herring’ category and that joke was mine and shame on you for piggy-backing on it. Actually, in this case you were telling the truth despite yourself, you wanted to admit your number-crunching ways but couldn’t bear to, so when you got a option which hinted at this but in a humorous way you selected it as if you were joking, because it allowed you to tell the truth. How are you going to get mentioned on Powerband? By climbing big numbers, think about it. When was the last time we reported someone climbing an ungraded slab? Never, that’s when. Shame on you.

Which brings us to the minority groups.  Now that we have identified you, we are better armed to marginalise you. 10 of you selected ’spreading small particles of skin and chalk as far and wide as possible’. By the way, I voted for this category. For years I’ve been campaigning for the more prodigious distribution of small skin and chalk particles in our natural places. It’s great to know there are more people like me out there. Brothers and sisters of the dust, I salute you!  Seriously though, what is wrong with you? You people are the detritus of the world.

Two of you claimed that your primary motivation was ‘avoiding being mentioned on Powerband’. Pull the other one. The only reason you saw the survey is because you check this site every five minutes to see if we have mentioned you yet. You are pathetic. Haven’t you figured out how this works yet? You pay me, I make up a story about you climbing something hard. It’s that simple. Want to get mentioned? SHOW ME THE MONEY!!!

One person selected ‘doing first ascents’. Just the one. There are a number of people who are such competitive ego-maniacs that they can only bear to climb their own problems. Trying a problem somebody else has done already is somehow beneath them (actually because every time they fall off they feel crushed by the knowledge that somebody else already climbed it before them and this puts them in the foetal position for several hours). If nobody else has done it before they can fool themselves that the problem is really hard and that they are a pioneering hero. However, I happen to know that none of those people look at this site, for the obvious reason that it would shatter their delusions. So this one person must be someone who has put up lots of boulder problems in Castle Hill Basin that we have reported about. Either that or they are a liar.

Now to our final category. Twice as many people (two to be precise) selected ‘doing second ascents’. Given that you outnumber our first ascentionists two to one you have quite the competition going on. Luckily, there is a bit of a backlog of unrepeated problems; as we all know, every conceivable problem in the Basin has already been ascended by Joe Arts in his tramping boots. In any case, you are just trying to burn off your mate and get the second ascent before him or her, so you are basically in the burning-off category anyway.

That concludes our survey. As far as I can tell, you are all either completely deluded shameless number crunchers or else openly aggressive and competitive number crunchers. That’s not true, a fifth of you are freaks who take wicked pleasure from the pointlessness of spreading chalk and skin around the universe (presumably if you had spacecraft you would travel wider than you do at present). Hopefully through seeing these results we now all understand each other a little better.

Stay tuned for our next survey, where we will ask ‘Who is the second most-annoying climbing media personality?’ we all know who is top of the heap in that regard. Thanks for voting.Ω

Ω A team of young thrusters hit the Hawkes Bay’s finest bouldering location, Blowhard Bush, on the weekend.  Rumours of a rampage are filtering through.  Crippled field correspondent, Peter ‘I’m so rad it hurts you to think about me snapping my leg in half, doesn’t it’ Allison reports via SMS:

“Caught up with lukemia, bob and conan - they were dynamic, really inspired me to grow a bunch of bone and get straight back out there”

8a.nu is also abuzz with tales of climbing hysteria in the Hawkes Bay:

“What are the future climbing trends at Blowhard Bush. How will the Hawkes Bay climbing scene look like in 2020? Here are some speuculations?
1. Ivan will be twice as big
2. All major cities in the Hawkes Bay will serve western food
3. Climbing gatherings/competitions at Blowhard Bush
4. Hawkes Bay will host the special Olympics
5. More loop tracks and short bush walks
6. Lower boulders with carjacks and shovels
7. 50% of indoor climbers are called Bob
8. 8a will provide online topos for all 5 climbs in the Hawkes Bay”

So things are getting interesting. Stayed tuned, we will update this report as more details come to hand. Ω