Ω Bouldering at the Auckland Quarry is like super-tapered jeans: uncomfortable, unflattering and (strangely, in light of those first two points) increasingly fashionable. I even went bouldering there this weekend, and if you know me you’ll know that I’m very fussy when it comes to climbing venues. There was chalk everywhere. I blame the new Quarry bouldering guide.

I guess there are some ‘pros’ in play here. First, it’s one minute from the car. Second, there are lots of historical climbs here, some of which are really just boulder problems with easy sport climbs tacked on the end. Third, it’s quite tough, especially on your skin and your pulleys. Fourth, the local climbers are surprisingly friendly.  I think those are all ‘pros’. 

So, if you’re stuck in A-land and are wondering how the renovations at Mt Eden prison are coming along, why not combine that site inspection with a spot of what my friend Franny describes as ‘pebble wrestling’. Ω

Ω According to his 8a.nu scorecard, Cliff Li has been busy bouldering at the Mt Eden Quarry. Recent ticks include Zilmerized V8, Scott’s Arete V8 and the local test piece Methodone V9. Ω