Ω Following up Regan’s comment posted earlier today, we have sourced a report on James FM’s recent trip to Castle Hill. The original trip report appears on his blog, but we struggled with some of the text so here is a reproduction of that report, translated into French using the Google translation tool, and then translated back into England:
“Travel Castle Hill
So, after spending eight days in the castle hill, I can say I feel like I’ve been ten rounds with Mike Tyson biting the ear less. Among the eight days I had two solid days of rain that has totally sucked ass, but I stayed six days of amazing climbing. My first objective was to complete many quality problems that had already considered the most: The Air Below (V6), Beautiful Edges (V4), Tupi Masters (V6), Limestone Orgasm (V7 ) Philtrum (V7) and many more blocks V6 and less.
My second purpose of the trip was to send a few problems that are not my limit, but have been hard for me, and I managed to check some of these off: Fidel Castro’s (V9), Dr. Manhattan (V9) , Afterburner (V9)?, Eclipse (V9) but I think I started a grip on this person?, Millennium (V9)?, Camp America (V9/10), and finally the super reachy Che Guerva (V8) .
My ultimate goal was to try to send something really difficult for me, and I found two projects that I attempted Interstella Overdrive (v10/11), and Oren Oshi (v11). Oren was the first of two i tried, and very quickly had pulled the bottom section back and raised on the coat. Unfortunately I fell three times the mantle and, finally, my spotter (Amy Nathan) said I had enough and we need more of a pad. I never had the chance to revisit the problem and therefore could not claim the ascent Blade 3
Interstella then came and I felt like I confident had enough of the road nearly a year earlier. I quickly found a sequence, and catching hold jugish knew at the end of the problem. The only problem I had on Interstella, which was my final fall down is that I was super extened when I caught the last block. Due to the fact I was so stretched out on the final movement, my feet slipped from the hook and I heal swug violently off and could not keep. During a period of three hours, until the sun went down, I managed to fall several points in time curseing hill flock, God, and nothing else I could think of time. I found myself packing up this defeat and didn’t have to try the problem again, LAME!
Besides the issues I mentioned as my projects I also tried several other hard lines, they were as follows: Captain Crush (V10/11), Monster Society of Evil (V9/10) When The Attack Animals (V10) and Brutus (V10). I can tell you that these problems kick the shit out of me … and I had to leave with my tail between his legs each! I also tried several V7s coat on the hill of spit and got cock slapped by each of them.
I can also announce that Amy was an amazing week too. She mounted several days younger than me, but still managed to complete a personal best V6 Spittle Hill. But this was not the full story … Amy has also managed in one day two V4, V5 and V6 in a … She was super happy!
Throughout my trip was cool, short but cool. I want to thank Bevan Hadler and Kat to leave Amy and i crash on the bed for one week, and to lend us the car! Smart guys!
I would say that, I think the locals CHCH, and the herd and people should stop ranking Wuthering there are problems, but nothing V6. Basically, it is because they still seem low grade every problem that is never implemented, and genreally unnecessarily. I’m just saying any degree V6 now rather slow sand bag of shit all.
Peace!”
If nothing else, there is some interesting grading matters arising from that report. Discuss below as you feel appropriate. Ω
this was actually a draft i posted on my blog by accident, not the final copy but whatever… spelling mistakes and all i guess.
o i missed the begining of this post.
also if i have got any of the grades wrong someone tell me.. cheers. i was just taking them from word of mouth and the guides i got and downloaded.
Ha! This is better than http://www.engrish.com/
What happens if we translate it to Spanish cause thats where all the hard men are. Then to Czech cause Adam Ondra is real good. And then back again.
“I can tell you that these problems will start crap out of me … and I had to leave with his tail between his legs each! I tried several V7s warm saliva on a hill and my cock slammed into each one.”
Sounds like you had a suoper productive 6 days. Nice job. I never found Che especially reachy, certainly no more reachy that Fidel or Millennium. I personally don’t think the grades at Castle Hill are especially hard compared to areas in the States and Europe that I’ve climbed at (with the exception of grit bouldering, which all seems to be graded for hot summer days).
Haha, thats gold!
Yeah pretty solid effort from FM. Apart from Beast Kong who can’t decide which city he is from, James is the only one getting out there on the boulders right now (unless you count the quarry..)
classic!
Regan - “James is the only one getting out there on the boulders right now”
Please explain this statement.
-> gomez, i’m guessing he means ‘the only Aucklander’
Ah, the qualification is “From Auckland”.
There is of course the usual mucking around at the Quarry / Froggatt / Waitomo but nothing serious. James is actually keen on proper bouldering which is unbelievable considering we don’t have anything.
I figured that’s what you meant, but I had to check. There is only one thing to do if you live in Akld and you like bouldering, move away!
I thought Waiheke was the next big thing?
Actually I’m keen on proper bouldering and I come from auckland! Just because I can’t climb V11 doesn’t mean it not “proper bouldering”. But I know what you are trying to say…
don’t know what city i live in? i don’t know what day it is half the time…
wow, it is amazing how posting a darft for 20min onto a blog by mistake can lead to such piss taking! gomez everyone knows auckland is the fucking place to be!
Waiheke (Stony Batter) is pretty much bouldered out. Theres maybe 3 projects in the V9ish area but thats it. There is of course possibility on private land but no one has looked seriously at that.
You love it James. Admit it :-)
Lies. That’s how FM speaks. He’s improved actually since I lived with him…
I was hoping one of you castle hill masters could clear something up for me. What is the grade of Brutus? I see the post master has said v10 or V8?. On closer inspection, the only grades I can find for the climb are V9 by the midget srtong man James Morris ( just joking around there james) and V10 in the latest guide. Not that it is anything special but i just wanted to get some clarification on it. cheers to whoever can enlighten me!
Yo dude, just downloaded the guide from here and it has v8. Brutus was always 9, then by my recollection Derek upgraded it to 10 because know one was trying it ;) - I promptly went and tried it. Did it using a different sequence (stolen from some British guy who could not do it). Making it slightly easier but took the points…Then when Zac did it, he and Derek found another variation on the new sequence dropping it down to 8.
I C. thanks man. It must be that i am weak as piss. I was pulling on hitting a sloper and trying a wild dyno to the juggish hold off a shitty foot. But I tried it in passing for like 20min, after my repeated falls off the top of oren oshi.
Sounds like the top of Oren is the crux then?
I have no idea JP. the start is pretty hard. Its a really weird start move to get on, the crossles are not so bad though, then a big jump. But i can’t roll a mantle to save my life. I am sure James, and Derek did not have a problem as they are seasoned hill masters. I was basically standing up over the lip but got all out of balance everytime i was up there. You will prob flash it though ;)
Hmm I remember it as more of a rock over…
I also recall screaming my lungs out, so must have been trying hard!
Yes, I expect I will flash it.
Unless your spotter bails out on you, then you won’t be able to try it.
Don’t need spotters if you just flash everything… just a beer bitch.