Ω Bouldering at the Auckland Quarry is like super-tapered jeans: uncomfortable, unflattering and (strangely, in light of those first two points) increasingly fashionable. I even went bouldering there this weekend, and if you know me you’ll know that I’m very fussy when it comes to climbing venues. There was chalk everywhere. I blame the new Quarry bouldering guide.
I guess there are some ‘pros’ in play here. First, it’s one minute from the car. Second, there are lots of historical climbs here, some of which are really just boulder problems with easy sport climbs tacked on the end. Third, it’s quite tough, especially on your skin and your pulleys. Fourth, the local climbers are surprisingly friendly. I think those are all ‘pros’.
So, if you’re stuck in A-land and are wondering how the renovations at Mt Eden prison are coming along, why not combine that site inspection with a spot of what my friend Franny describes as ‘pebble wrestling’. Ω
Pro #4: If you’re from Wgtn, the A-Land Quarry is easily dispatched! Solid ticking day JP. By the way - the guide has typo’s - Method One should be Methodone… I know it’s hard to read it wright when it’s ritten in the guide rong… Hah! Ona more serious note, it was great to meet you. To say it wasn’t a fun day overall would be a sandbag… Haha. My tips are still raw and it’s Monday…
Noted. I’ve always wondered about that name. Cheers for the tour - have fun in Thailand!
Love the tags on this post…
The guide is work in progress, so if there are any errors with it , please let us know. It is surprising that most people seem to get the guide and treat the grades as FACT, when its just a few of us climbing there, spending the time to make the guide. The more input we get the better. So talk/email me, Ketz or Zane, and we’ll update it.
People love treating guidebook grades as “fact”. I remember my first “28″ was a nice little 24 at Beautiful Valley. I was chuffed! Anyway, nice work on the guide - it certainly seems to have sparked some interesting in Quarry bouldering.
Quarry grades can be so ‘out there’ sometimes - I don’t think I’ve ever found such a collection of v0 - v4 that I have to work harder than on most v5-6 on… Haha. Not a dig at ‘guide grades’ just a side note :-P Cliff just sent Scott’s Arete with the lower start too… in jeans without a warm-up. Godamn he’s just too skinny!
But was he wearing super-taper jeans?
They were super taper alright!
Word on the street is that the large great unclimbed problem at the quarry (The face left of Bop Gun) is seeing some serious sweat action at the moment in an attemp to ‘Dispatch’ it before ‘The Future’ arrives…
hello, I’m french and my englich is realy bad, sorry about that.
I’m at auckland and I’ve only my climbing choose so I’m looking for a boulder area. where is the querry please?
the quarry is basically at Auckland boys grammer school. opposite the cricket fields, and the prison. but don’t expect to much from the quarry! peacw!