Ω It’s the land of Southern Men: where pig hunting is a contact sport, Speights is the beverage of choice no matter what the occasion and stubbies are always in fashion. And now all those pig-strangling, beer-guzzling, upper-thigh tanning hard men have a new hard boulder problem to try. As reported by Tom V.D.B, Sam Mangai has climbed his long standing project on the Wave boulder, at Jardines. Dubbed Remission, Sam has (quietly) tendered a grade of V11, which means its V12 at a minimum. Good onya, mate!
Here’s what Tom had to say:
“Sam Mangai has sent his long term project, named ‘Remission’ due to the lengthy and painful process it took to make the send. The problem takes a bold line up a steep face at the highest point on the south face of the stunning ‘Wave’ boulder at Jardines. The fiercely crimpy problem required some disciplined campus training and many attempts over a 2 year period. From start to finish the intensity does not let up with an impressive crux move at ankle breaking height, a Mandala-esque ‘double gaston’ catch. Not a bad effort for a guy who climbs once a week! [Ed: that last bit was mine]”
Tom also gave the lowdown on other happenings in the southern prrrrrrrrovince:
“Many great new lines are being found in and around Queenstown, if you are willing to look (which not many are) or walk. After searching high and low we have discovered two very steep caves nestled in the Wye Creek valley, watch this space. We have also developed a cluster of boulders at an area called ‘Rastus burn’ (halfway up the Remarkables road). Some highlights are: Nazgul V8, steep overhang requiring good body tension (FA Sam Mangai) and Urakia V7, steep face with beautiful water polished holds (FA Tom V.D.B).
The Hogan Boulder now has 9 quality problems from v7-v10, not bad for one boulder! Recent additions are: Neutron Star Collision V9, sharp & sustained! (FA Sam Mangai) and Dreamers Traverse V8, stunning slopey traverse (FA Tom V.D.B).
Finally, recent additions to Jardines and Roadside include:
- Out of the Ashes V7/8, roof (FA Tom V.D.B)
- Bruce Lee V7, roof (FA Marco Correia)
- Sleepy Molusc V7, steep knee bar huckin (FA Marco Correia)
- The Ripple Effect V7, dyno perhaps better named the flapper effect! (FA Sam Mangai)
- Exsqueese Me V8, long reach (FA Sam Mangai)
- Punctum Archimedes V9, one desparate snatch (FA Sam Mangai)”
So the local lads, Sam, Tom and Marco, have been busy…Ω











