sam-bears-down-on-the-opening-crimp-of-remission-2Ω It’s the land of Southern Men: where pig hunting is a contact sport, Speights is the beverage of choice no matter what the occasion and stubbies are always in fashion. And now all those pig-strangling, beer-guzzling, upper-thigh tanning hard men have a new hard boulder problem to try.  As reported by Tom V.D.B, Sam Mangai has climbed his long standing project on the Wave boulder, at Jardines.  Dubbed Remission, Sam has (quietly) tendered a grade of V11, which means its V12 at a minimum. Good onya, mate!

Here’s what Tom had to say:

“Sam Mangai has sent his long term project, named ‘Remission’ due to the lengthy and painful process it took to make the send. The problem takes a bold line up a steep face at the highest point on the south face of the stunning ‘Wave’ boulder at Jardines. The fiercely crimpy problem required some disciplined campus training and many attempts over a 2 year period. From start to finish the intensity does not let up with an impressive crux move at ankle breaking height, a Mandala-esque ‘double gaston’ catch. Not a bad effort for a guy who climbs once a week! [Ed: that last bit was mine]”

Tom also gave the lowdown on other happenings in the southern prrrrrrrrovince:

“Many great new lines are being found in and around Queenstown, if you are willing to look (which not many are) or walk. After searching high and low we have discovered two very steep caves nestled in the Wye Creek valley, watch this space. We have also developed a cluster of boulders at an area called ‘Rastus burn’ (halfway up the Remarkables road). Some highlights are: Nazgul V8, steep overhang requiring good body tension (FA Sam Mangai) and Urakia V7, steep face with beautiful water polished holds (FA Tom V.D.B).

The Hogan Boulder now has 9 quality problems from v7-v10, not bad for one boulder! Recent additions are: Neutron Star Collision V9, sharp & sustained! (FA Sam Mangai) and Dreamers Traverse V8, stunning slopey traverse (FA Tom V.D.B).

Finally, recent additions to Jardines and Roadside include:

  • Out of the Ashes V7/8, roof (FA Tom V.D.B)
  • Bruce Lee V7, roof (FA Marco Correia)
  • Sleepy Molusc V7, steep knee bar huckin (FA Marco Correia)
  • The Ripple Effect V7, dyno perhaps better named the flapper effect! (FA Sam Mangai)
  • Exsqueese Me V8, long reach (FA Sam Mangai)
  • Punctum Archimedes V9, one desparate snatch (FA Sam Mangai)”

So the local lads, Sam, Tom and Marco, have been busy…Ω

Superman IndeedΩ Well, the Rock Hop is done and dusted for another year. It was a bit damp and windy with a strong southerly early in the day, but Kristen wisely predicted the day would clear and the damp problems would dry off eventually and he was right. I’m told that this competition has been running now for 22 years and now that I have managed to attend for the first time, I can see why. Masses of people and chalk lines transform Baring Head from a lonely crimpy face-climbing margin area into a hub of flailing limbs with a great range of problems to try. I must admit, it took me a while to get used to the quantity of chalk dictated rules, staring at all those chalk lines with numbers and circles and squares was a bit like being transported back in time to my primary school maths class, but I got there eventually and was pleased to find some of the eliminates are actually very good problems. There were were all sorts of problems; pure lines, one-handed problems, no-handed problems, eliminate dynos (my favourite), traverses that went slightly up, traverses that went slightly down, traverses that were entirely below my standing head height, traverses that were entirely below my waist height, traverses that were entirely below my knee height (when I walked over the top of them), and spoogey death highball problems. What more could anyone want?

There were less entrants than usual for this competition, especially in the junior categories, possibly because of the windy conditions early in the day (harden up kids). The expert male category was hotly contested, with ZacAtak™, Buff Dan, Jase Whittaker, Roland Foster and other hotshots flying up from Christchurch, not to mention local heroes Ivan Vostinar, Rich Castillo, Kristen Foley and Josiah’s Dad. They were going head-to-head from ten o’clock but at around one an excited ripple passed through the field when local ‘big deal’ Dave Kopp rocked up. Competitors knew he still had enough time to crush the hardest eight problems available before close-off at three and take out the title in classy ‘I slept in and went to the cafe for brunch before I came down here’ style. Luckily for the field Dave declined to climb and show us all up. Other interesting points from the day were Chris Worthington climbing The Scoop but still managing not to place in either category and Kristen managing not to dislocate his shoulder this year.

For those of you that care about results, here is what I can remember from the prizegiving:

Junior Male - Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott crushed all in his path, which was, well, not that many, but if there were more he still would have crushed them.

Junior Female - No entrants.

Expert Male - ZacAtak™ won comfortably, he was the only one to do the classic Show of Strength which incidentally, he had never done before. Second and third was closely fought out by Tyler Fleury and Dan Mackay.

Expert Female - Won by Amie Jones for the second year running. Second went to Esther Hilltop-Hoods and third to Kate Sinclair, a good effort considering she was looking after baby Isaac for much of the day while competing.

Thanks to Kristen, Dan and JP for marking the problems and organising the competition, your efforts were appreciated by everyone who entered.

I’d like to make a final comment, a parting shot if you will, in regard to the prestige involved in winning this event. Zac climbed superbly and thoroughly deserves acclaim for his exceptional performance. However, I’d like to question whether the achievement of winning the expert category should overshadow the endurance category, as it seems to in most people’s eyes. Zac only had to climb eight problems for his title, whereas the winner of the Endurance category had to climb 25, more than three times that number of problems. Zac’s points total was an impressive 800+ points, which is far superior to the paltry 65.5 of the Enduro winner. However, the different scoring systems used unfairly makes Zac’s score appear to be far superior and if the same sytem was used the Enduro category winner would have sported an impressive… um… 379. Damn Fibonacci! But yeah…um… they had to climb more than three times as many problems… Well done Zac! Ω

Ω Don’t forget…it’s the Baring Head Rock Hop this weekend. New Zealand’s oldest climbing competition. Hopefully our (badly shaken) friends from Christchurch will be attending Ω

Ω Actually, no ladders. But there is some bouldering, and some beatbox!

Antics from Oliver Miller on Vimeo. Ω

5460006853_d9efb05776_bΩ Ever the efficient communicator, James Morris updates thus:

“Three new problems yesterday, all near Space Monkey at Flock Hill:

#1 Bad ass arete

#2 Bulb in foreground which Derek has noted with some weird name…

#3 Dyno pictured right, which is nearby.

Estimate at grades: 6, 7, 7ish”

Choice. Ω

img_2158-2Ω One of these is not like the others:

  • Charlie Creese climbed New Zealand’s first V8 in 1981.
  • Nirvana released “Smells Like Teen Spirit” (the song that defined Generation X) in 1991.
  • Sherpa Temba Tsheri became the youngest person to summit Mount Everest in 2001.
  • Youth of the moment, Josiah Jacobsen-Grocott became the youngest person to climb A Show Of Strength in 2011.

I was going to say the Nirvana song, but (on reflection) they all involve smelly teens. The end Ω

Ω It’s almost here. Actually, it’s already started, at Waitomo on the weekend. Hope you made it along. If not, then be sure to make up for lost time at the next event, Baring Head 26 February 2011. For more details:  www.nbs.org.nz Ω

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