2010 October

Octoberfest

Ω Zac Orme is short so, in deference to the man, I’ll keep this short too. Zac climbed Ancient Arts Arete V10 this weekend, making the 3rd ascent of this grand line on Wuthering Heights. He also climbed Gunslinger V8 and Sidewinder V8, barely breaking a sweat. He’s ormesome. Ω

No Bogans

Ω James Morris reports that some deadbeats with two-stroke brains were cutting up Quantum Field on the weekend on dirt bikes. Plainly, compared to brushing the odd bit of lichen off here and there, this is totally out of order. If anyone sees them at it again, please say something like: “Hey bogan, stop that right now!” Ω

Media Watch #9

Ω Stoo Kurth has been up to that bouldering area in Northland. You know the one. Trip report on his BLOG along with some wild hyperbole about some chossy arete in Whangarei…Ω

Making The News

Ω Baring Head rock climbing was splashed all over the Dominion Post today, courtesy of Kester Brown’s article. Ok, so that might be a slight overstatement, but it gets a double-page spread in the Weekend magazine and a little box of the front page. Onya!

Click HERE for more…Ω

True Grit

Ω This just in from Oliver Miller (making Dunners proud!):

Chur! Ω

Double Copley

Ω I’ve had a few emails lately from a chap by the name of Brandon Copley. He’s a Pom, a mad keen climber and for reasons known only to him (and his brother), he and his brother have decided to move to Wellington….for the climbing? Anyway, en route from Auckland Airport to Welly, the brothers Copley visited the Airstrip (so they’ll feel better when they get to Turakirae Head?). My point is that Brandon has emailed today saying he has repeated Anit-Hesitator, which I think is this thing:

If you’re keen for more on the Copleys (including climbing pictures and videos) click on their names: BRANDON and LIAM.Ω

Moving Pictures

Ω Hot off the 500D:

Flock Hill Classics Vol 2 from derek thatcher on Vimeo. Ω

Optimus

Ω This just in from Troy, method photo-artist and climbing enigma:

“You can’t deny the majestic beauty that is Flock Hill. The strong hold that it has on its climbers is so great that no one wanted to go elsewhere like Redcliffe, but with a description of ‘from a distance it looks very scrappy, but amongst the flakey rubbish there are a few pockets of awesome rock’…I don’t blame them.

So we went to Flock Hill. Buff Dan climbed Vortex of Damnation v7. This is propped up on the edge of the escarpment and has a potential trip into the unknown. Mmmm tempting. Zac and James showed us their dances moves on the problem dubbed The Far Away Project v10; for this you have to squeeze nothing and then go up and up and mantle/chicken wing. Sweet! Pete ate a packet of wine gums then, whilst running around in circles, got stuck upon a boulder for an hour before getting rescued. Hehe lol. He did clean and try his epic dyno project dubbed Flash Gordan, SICK.

But onto bigger things…like dubstep. I know, I know, quite a scary concept this dubstep. But I’m learning (if done well) that it has its place, along with highballing. Zac nabbed the first and only of ascent of the bold Optimus Gryme v7 (pictured), along with this dj’s set last week this thing is epic.” Ω