Ω 100 posts and counting since Powerband was resurrected from its Dreamweaver 1.0 grave. And to celebrate this very modest numerical attainment, here’s some more numbers (cos I’m still whale hunting). Flock Hill’s V10 and up tick list:
Middle Trifecta V13
Psychosis V12
The Little Book of Calm V12
Weapon Omega V12
Captain Sassy Direct V11
Acapulco V11
Hume Roof V11
A Saucerful Of Secrets V10
Captain Crush V10
Distorted Reality V10
Cartman (SS) V10
Kiss the Sky V10
Komodo V10
Non-Sequitar V10
Superman V10
General Mayhem V10
Interstellar Overdrive V10
Mortality Sequence V10
The Vapor Trail V10
Liquidus Line V10
Sure, if you go to Hueco you get about the same number of double digit problems per boulder. But (and I’m gonna stick my neck out here) we all know that the V10s in Hueco Tanks are V6s at Flock Hill. Go on, prove me wrong…..hotshot! Bet you wont flash a single one (unless some local sells you beta in exchange for some signed underwear!) Ω
Ω One measure of how popular a website is must be the volume of spam comments it generates. Sadly, Powerband doesn’t generate many, but this one tickled my fancy:
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Ω I heard the other day that Jamie Emerson (Mr B3 Bouldering) reads Powerband. I doubt it. But just in case, and in the spirit of Thatcher’s surge in moving picture output, I have uploaded to Vimeo my 2005 film about bouldering in Wellington. Surely that will deter him from ever logging on again…
Ω Waiting for a report from the Aucks on their invasion of Castle Hill. In the meantime, here’s a pretty picture of the partially bionic Troy Mattingley crushing Amercian Psycho V5 at Flock Hill. Ω
Ω In my private moments, I like to imagine that really strong and famous climbers from other countries read Powerband. Sure, they don’t get the jokes (what jokes?) and probably find the pictures of Dave Kopp off-putting but I fail to see how they couldn’t get psyched on all the amazing bouldering at Castle Hill. And to stoke the fire further, here’s a challenge to all the V12 plus crushers out there (cos I know you can’t resist a challenge): the first person to climb all unrepeated problems V10 or harder (as at today’s date) in the Basin wins…..(wait for it)….a free-of-charge, sugar-coated, full colour profile post on Powerband (cos I know it’s a tough market out there and some airtime on Powerband could really help your career!).
And, to make it easy for ya, here’s the list:
Dry Valley The Hueco Problem V11
Cosmic Energy SS V10
Devilution V10
Flock Hill Trifecta Middle V13
Weapon Omega V12
The Little Book Of Calm V12
Psychosis V12
Liquidus Line V10
The Vapour Trail V10
Cartman SS V10
(Full) Kiss The Sky V10
Komodo V10
Non-Sequitar V10
Quantum Field Legion SS V12
Ristretto SS V11
Bio Hazard SS V10
Picolo V10
Fatwa SS V10
Spittle Hill Morse Code V11
So go to it, Whales! And stay tuned for our projects spotlights (more shameless baiting of hotshot climbers) Ω
Ω As most Cantabrians struggled to come to terms with the greatest shock to the region since Robbie Deans was exposed as an average coach, intrepid local climbers headed out to inspect the damage at their local crags.
As many of you may already know, Castle Rock (long-time trad tramping crag of choice amongst bearded nut stuffers) suffered a partial collapse. Upside is limited, but a few problems have been climbed on the blocs pictured here.
Out at Castle Hill, some rearrangement of blocs has occured. Apparently the top of the Perfume Bottle at Spittle Hill has snapped off; the resulting boulder will undoubtedly offer some distractions. Ω
“Thought I would write a summary of mid-week going-ons and so I could have my photo put on your website.
A rad group with the age bracket of 12 (my maturity according to my girlfriend) - 46 wagged ‘work’ at any cost to make the most of spring conditions at Flock Hill yesterday. The group included first timers, seasoned professionals and people made of unobtainium.
Lots of boulder problems were climbed but the send of the day goes to JC with Monster Society of Evil V10. Shazam!”
Ω Yesterday, Sam Mangai climbed his endurance project on the Roadside Boulder at Wye Creek. Fight Club V10 comprises a 16 move V7 into a 14 move V8. TVDB climbed his project there also, now known as The Expendables V8.
Meanwhile, nothing at all interesting happened in Auckland. Rumour has it, however, that Aucklanders Stoo Kurth and James Headphones-Mitchell will shortly be hitting Castle Hill Basin. Stay tuned Ω
Ω In between southerly squalls (which required the crux sloper to be covered with its very own GoreTex raincoat), James Morris tried, tired and then triumphed on his burly roof project at Flock Hill on Sunday. Located on the upper east side of the central (1000 Times Slab) gully, this racy little number involves some burly compression, brutal contact on the crux sloper then a wild swing off a ‘not-quite-as-good-as-it-might-be’ jug. The stand start to this problem was climbed by Derek Thatcher a while back, and the problem retains its name but gets a big fat upgrade: Komodo V10. Ω