What is that thing?ΩAs New Zealand’s bouldering areas sizzle under our unfiltered sun boulderers everywhere are scurrying for shady sportclimbing areas or shady party destinations. Personally, I swear never to go to Castle Hill between the months of November and March. If I do I never climb anything, I always get sunburnt and end up wanting to sleep in the shade of some boulder somewhere and then there is nowhere to swim when I wake up (and they say alpinism is tough!). For some reason, every summer I make the mistake of forgetting my oath and go out there just once with some foolish notion that maybe it won’t be that bad. Shudder. It’s always bad enough to keep me away until the end of summer at least.

This season I got my ‘amnesia day’ out of the way reasonably early, barely waiting until the end of December before heading out with a forecast promising a high of 18 degrees and some decent cloud cover. Of course, forecasting being what it is in this country, Castle Hill was baking in 24 degrees and bright sunlight. To make matters worse, I went to Quantum Field. To make matters doubly worse, I went with ZacAtak™ and Christina who, despite being thrilling company seemed to be under the illusion that the conditions weren’t so abominable that we should immediately hightail it to the nearest swimming hole. Not only did they climb, they had poor enough manners to climb well.

ZacAtak™ bagged two V8s, the sublime Pythagoras and the ridiculous Trojan, not to mention a repeat of Anthrax to show Christina the beta. The impetuousness of youth! Christina’s manners were slightly better, despite hiking the bottom of Anthrax she jumped off without the send mumbling some kind of excuse, but we all knew she just didn’t want to make me look bad. Next time she is out she’ll be sure to bag the FFA (fourth female ascent) of this 100 ft problem. When wee moved into the shade she did make the FFFAWBP (first free female ascent with blue pants) of my POJO problem (work it out for yourself, hint: it’s by Fidel Castro). ZacAtak™ made the FFFFADA (First Free Female-Free and Drealocked Ascent) of this problem. He then tried to figure out how to crack climb but quickly gave it up as an anachronistic waste of time.

Momentous happenings were then afoot, as the three of us then made the FTPRAWDABP (first three person repeat ascent with dreadlocks and blue pants) of the Derek Thatcher/Stefan Hadfield/Kim Cousins masterpiece Threesome. This problem requires three people to climb it and is a stern test of group dynamics. The recipe for success demands a tall person, a light person and a strong person of indeterminate length. Three three of us fit the bill perfectly (can you guess who was who?). We tested the possibility of success by my hanging off ZacAtak™’s foot for a little bit while he dangled from some holds. Then we got stuck in. After a misfire where Christina tried to sit on ZacAtak™’s head while he was hanging from the bottom hueco and we all fell over laughing, victory was soon ours. The beta is simple: tall person boosts strong person to bottom hueco and then light person is boosted/climbs up the dangling strong person through other huecos and to top, strong person then climbs up to stand in bottom hueco with one foot dangling as low as possible while holding top of boulder, light person lies on top of boulder and holds on to wrists of strong person to give extra resistance to the massive weight of tall person, this is required because tall person then jumps to catch dangling foot of strong person and then campuses to bottom hueco, strong person scrambles out of the way and while tall person flails around on huecos strong person and light person haul tall person to the top of the boulder much like landing a whale, fists are then tagged all around on top of the boulder.

I felt privileged to be part of this ascent, not just because it was a rare opportunity but also because I got to touch ZacAtak™’s foot, and my doctor says I didn’t even catch anything (it’s unclear if the participants in the first ascent party all remained disease-free post-ascent)!Ω

Ω Ivan Vostinar is something of solo force in the New Zealand bouldering scene at present. While most boulderers have gone into summer hibernation, the beast from the east continued his pre-Xmas rampage by adding a new V10 at the Rak on Sunday. The now-so-called Passive Attack is a right hand exit to his excellent problem Attack V7, with a huge span and some committing toe hook malarkey over the pit of death.

After “50 starts” the Vos also grabbed the second ascent of Noir Désir V9. He thought it was probably V9. Ω

Ω I ran into a guy the other day who said that he and another guy were bouldering on Fly Rock one day (not the other day) and climbed a new problem. It traverses from the left, to the right, staying super low. He thought it might be V7. Ω

Ω Wellington climber Ivan Vostinar is just back from a busy week at Wuthering Heights, where he opened several new problems including The Engorger V9 (”SS (1st crux) then long traverse R on slopers to 2nd crux”), Powerlicious V9 (”Four beast moves from ss”) and Slap Attack V7/8 (”SS undercling and big move to sloper top-out”) along with a handful of V6s and V7s.  He is nothing if not prolific Ω

wutheringheightsΩ Courtesy of Derek Thatcher, Powerband is delighted to make available for download the PocketPilot Climbing Media guide to bouldering at Wuthering Heights.  Download from the Guides page, and enjoy Ω

Ω News just in from our Deep South correspondent, Sam Anderson-Mangai:

Hey John,

I’m not sure if you had seen/tried Derek’s problem, ‘First Blood’ V9 on the Wave boulder. Thomas and I have been trying the new version after I broke a hold last summer (now using a small quartz crimp instead of the flake I pulled off). Managed to get the send yesterday making the Wave boulder the Bowder Stone of the Jardines. In keeping with the Rambo theme Derek had going I’ve re-named it ‘Million Dollar Equipment’ (still considered First Blood if you’re a purist ;p). Thomas did two new problems on ‘Big Slab’ boulder - ‘Big Lunge’ V5 and ‘Big Foot’ V4-5? Both pretty class.

Cheers

Sam

And that’s all folks! Ω

joeykindkid

You know you want to be like him.

ΩOur motivation survey is now closed. I have analysed the results using a secret NASA supercomputer and can offer the following conclusions.

Of the 50 responses, 68% of people had the primary motivation of improving their 8a scorecard. You might think ‘Hey wait a minute… that wasn’t even an option!’ but you have in fact been cleverly outmanoeuvred by yours truly. You see, despite anonymity it was apparent people would still lie and select another option rather than admit the horrible petty truth, that they are slaves to Jens Larsen and his number-crunching. To get around this, we did some ‘in-depth psychological profiling’ of a number of ‘volunteer’ climbers (this was made possible by the lovely people at Guantanamo Bay Military Prison) to find what alternative categories they would pick to replicate the 8a tick if it weren’t present. So, if you voted for ‘climbing as hard as possible’ (14 of you did) you admitted that all you really care about is numbers, big numbers. How else is hard climbing defined?

Another 13 selected ‘having fun with your mates on the rock’ which was the obvious ‘red herring’ option. Nobody is actually motivated in this way, we all know that climbers don’t have ‘mates’ or even friends. Climbers just have other climbers that they go climbing with, these people aren’t friends, they are enemies that need to be burned off and defeated on 8a. As the saying goes: keep your friends close, but because you have none, keep your enemies close and pretend they are friends. What better way to beat someone on 8a than by sabotaging their climbing from close range? People use all sorts of tricks for this; spooging up holds, anti-beta, mixing chalk with lubricant, bad shoe recommendations, telling stories about someone falling off the top and breaking their leg, stealing their lunch, tipping out all their water (this doesn’t work on JP),  telling people that unclimbed blank faces are Derek’s new V10, etc, etc.  This obviously false option was included due to the psychologically proven fact that, when given a list of options that doesn’t actually include their first choice, some people choose an option that is obviously false through protest. Clear evidence of this is people watching Adam Sandler movies. Nobody would actually chose to do so, it’s just the movie they wanted to see wasn’t on, so they made a protest choice of such ridiculous bad taste everyone would know what was going on. You 13 people are horrible despicable liars who are kidding yourselves.

Six people were honest and admitted that their primary motivation was burning people off. You are lumped in with those above, because we all know that it’s hard to burn people off in person, so allegiance to 8a works well as you can track what other people are doing and lie on your scorecard so you are always ahead of them. You can also go back and downgrade the problems they have just done that you had already done, thereby making them look bad. Very clever.

Another person joins this group through selecting ‘getting mentioned on Powerband’. They may have thought they were being funny by selecting this. But it was only funny as a second ‘red herring’ category and that joke was mine and shame on you for piggy-backing on it. Actually, in this case you were telling the truth despite yourself, you wanted to admit your number-crunching ways but couldn’t bear to, so when you got a option which hinted at this but in a humorous way you selected it as if you were joking, because it allowed you to tell the truth. How are you going to get mentioned on Powerband? By climbing big numbers, think about it. When was the last time we reported someone climbing an ungraded slab? Never, that’s when. Shame on you.

Which brings us to the minority groups.  Now that we have identified you, we are better armed to marginalise you. 10 of you selected ’spreading small particles of skin and chalk as far and wide as possible’. By the way, I voted for this category. For years I’ve been campaigning for the more prodigious distribution of small skin and chalk particles in our natural places. It’s great to know there are more people like me out there. Brothers and sisters of the dust, I salute you!  Seriously though, what is wrong with you? You people are the detritus of the world.

Two of you claimed that your primary motivation was ‘avoiding being mentioned on Powerband’. Pull the other one. The only reason you saw the survey is because you check this site every five minutes to see if we have mentioned you yet. You are pathetic. Haven’t you figured out how this works yet? You pay me, I make up a story about you climbing something hard. It’s that simple. Want to get mentioned? SHOW ME THE MONEY!!!

One person selected ‘doing first ascents’. Just the one. There are a number of people who are such competitive ego-maniacs that they can only bear to climb their own problems. Trying a problem somebody else has done already is somehow beneath them (actually because every time they fall off they feel crushed by the knowledge that somebody else already climbed it before them and this puts them in the foetal position for several hours). If nobody else has done it before they can fool themselves that the problem is really hard and that they are a pioneering hero. However, I happen to know that none of those people look at this site, for the obvious reason that it would shatter their delusions. So this one person must be someone who has put up lots of boulder problems in Castle Hill Basin that we have reported about. Either that or they are a liar.

Now to our final category. Twice as many people (two to be precise) selected ‘doing second ascents’. Given that you outnumber our first ascentionists two to one you have quite the competition going on. Luckily, there is a bit of a backlog of unrepeated problems; as we all know, every conceivable problem in the Basin has already been ascended by Joe Arts in his tramping boots. In any case, you are just trying to burn off your mate and get the second ascent before him or her, so you are basically in the burning-off category anyway.

That concludes our survey. As far as I can tell, you are all either completely deluded shameless number crunchers or else openly aggressive and competitive number crunchers. That’s not true, a fifth of you are freaks who take wicked pleasure from the pointlessness of spreading chalk and skin around the universe (presumably if you had spacecraft you would travel wider than you do at present). Hopefully through seeing these results we now all understand each other a little better.

Stay tuned for our next survey, where we will ask ‘Who is the second most-annoying climbing media personality?’ we all know who is top of the heap in that regard. Thanks for voting.Ω

Musashi V10Ω James Morris (aka The Future) became the second young hotshot to dispose of Musashi V10, Ivan Vostinar’s Bronx Cave test piece, in less than an hour.  And it was warm too!  He also disposed of Speed Freak V7, Speed King V7 and very nearly claimed the second ascent of Tyrant V9 Ω

Ω Little known bouldering facts: Fontainebleau legend Jacky Godoffe is lefthanded; John Gill is also a lefty; Jerry Moffat is always right; Ron Fawcett climbed Careless Torque mainly on the right; Big Golden 7c+ is just right of Tristesse 7c (which Derek Thatcher flashed), Formis Rouge 7c+ is just to the left; John Sherman left his mark; Oscar Eckenstein was right on the mark; Midnight Lightning V8 starts left of the lightning bolt, but finishes to the right; Captain Sassy Pants V8 also goes from left to right, unless you climb the direct variation, which doesn’t go that far right; Pete Allison broke his right leg on Trifecta Middle, after falling off going left; JP nabbed the FA of Arcadia Left V9 at Turakirae Head on Sunday, using two right foot shoes because he’d left the left one at home; right at the limit of my creativity now turning a one line news item into a post; nothing left to say (and it wasn’t that funny anyway) Ω