shazamΩ Courtesy of Tea Roy:

“Thought I would write a summary of mid-week going-ons and so I could have my photo put on your website.

A rad group with the age bracket of 12 (my maturity according to my girlfriend) - 46 wagged ‘work’ at any cost to make the most of spring conditions at Flock Hill yesterday. The group included first timers, seasoned professionals and people made of unobtainium.

Lots of boulder problems were climbed but the send of the day goes to JC with Monster Society of Evil V10. Shazam!”

Thanks Troy. Keep the newsfeed feeding! Ω

Ω Yesterday, Sam Mangai climbed his endurance project on the Roadside Boulder at Wye Creek. Fight Club V10 comprises a 16 move V7 into a 14 move V8. TVDB climbed his project there also, now known as The Expendables V8.

Meanwhile, nothing at all interesting happened in Auckland.  Rumour has it, however, that Aucklanders Stoo Kurth and James Headphones-Mitchell will shortly be hitting Castle Hill Basin. Stay tuned Ω

Komodo V10Ω In between southerly squalls (which required the crux sloper to be covered with its very own GoreTex raincoat), James Morris tried, tired and then triumphed on his burly roof project at Flock Hill on Sunday. Located on the upper east side of the central (1000 Times Slab) gully, this racy little number involves some burly compression, brutal contact on the crux sloper then a wild swing off a ‘not-quite-as-good-as-it-might-be’ jug. The stand start to this problem was climbed by Derek Thatcher a while back, and the problem retains its name but gets a big fat upgrade: Komodo V10. Ω

Ω Courtesy of Derek Thatcher:

Castle Hill New School Classics Vol One from derek thatcher on Vimeo.

Cheers D Ω

4261312601_675196f091_oΩ Sam Mangai reports from QT: “I thought I’d flick you an email re: recent happenings down here. For the most part the weather has been average but I managed to tick off two little projects at Hogan boulder; March of the Fire Ants V8 (pictured here) and Biogenesis V9 (a nice little overhanging prow). If the weather holds for tomorrow, Tom and I are going to head out and I’m planning to get some photos of him on his new V7, Tsunamarama”. Ω

Ω Zac Orme has climbed the Liquidus project at Flock Hill.  Like his mentor, Chris Sharma, Zac has declined to grade his latest masterpiece, saying only: “It’s the hardest thing I’ve done, it’s the hardest thing at Flock Hill, but I’m not going to comment on its difficulty”.  Guess that makes it V12 plus Ω

WispΩWhile I was simultaneously concurrently and for reasons unknown climbing at Kangaroo Point, some slack layabouts went up to Dry Valley BOTH days in the weekend. This kind of attention at Dry Valley is unprecedented and quite frankly, I’m scared for the safety of the boulders.

Derek has no such sympathy though, living up to his name by dispatching the much-gloried-on-the-internet Hueco Project (Not THAT name, where would you find thatch out in the Basin, dummy?). Nice one. For reasons unknown no matter what matter the facts are there and considering what is more much more grave that in the light of labours lost of Steinweg and Peterman, Jim-Bob Morris also had success, sending the ming-wah V8 dyno Wisp and also Derek’s snazzy-looking recent addition, Hyperspace 500. Furthermore, despite tennis of all sorts, a new compression bloc was found, and an unsubstantiated quantity of climbers allegedly ascended said bloc quaquaquaqua via big compression moves as uttered forth in the public works of Puncher and Wattmann of a personal God with white beard outside time without extension who from the heights of divine apathia divine athambia divine aphasia loves us dearly with some exceptions for reasons unknown but time will tell are plunged in torment plunged in fire whose fire flames if that continues and who can doubt it will fire the firmament that is to say blast hell to heaven so blue still and calm so calm with a calm which even though intermittent is better than nothing… Ω

Ω A curious discussion is developing on B3 Bouldering about the definition of “boulder problem”.  You may like to read it.  Or you may wish to comment on my proposed definition:

boulder problem n.  A unique directional journey located on a boulder or boulder-like object that is capable of spatial definition by reference to physical location or climbing sequence.

Or you may wish to question the activities of some Wellington climbers who repeatedly rename and reclaim the first ascent of “boulder problems” that have been climbed many, many times before. Ω

Liquidous LineΩAfter a hearty roast dinner courtesy of Matt and Rach (and a fair amount of rain) on Friday night the team (Derek, James, ZacAtak™ and Matt) made a late start to Wuthering Heights on Saturday. There they climbed some stuff. James warmed-up the mighty Okinawa Steel, while Derek re-repeated Oren Ishi’i (despite his spotters saying enough was enough and we need more than one pad and he wasn’t able to return for the third ascent). ZacAtak™ repeated Derek’s latest addition to the area Sloper Syndicate (V9ish), which probably involves slopers. The double-mantle problem to the right of Texas Chainsaw Massacre received some serious attention (including a spectacular fall from Matt). On the way back down the hill they stopped at The Vostinar Sloper Traverse #54, a.k.a. Powerlicious. Derek and James repeated this problem which is described as “a slopey traverse”.

Sunday dawned with an enlarged posse for a three-car attack on Flock Hill. Matt and Rach (no she didn’t climb, have you SEEN her finger?) brought out Rowan and Mark Pugh-Williams (who will henceforth be referred to as ‘Pug’ to avoid any immature toilet humour) who are two of the older geckos (do older flying geckos become Tuataras?). Pug and Jamie Vinton-Boot both climbed Porky, causing it to be downgraded to V7 and V6 respectively. Finally, to the utter embarrassment of Kester Brown (who was off being poncey) I climbed it, causing a further downgrade to V5 (did I mention ZacAtak™ flashed it AND the topout was wet?). Shortly after this something actually happened, with Derek making the first ascent of a project up the hill a bit, via some cool slopers, a single upside-down pocket and some body contortions.

ZacAtak™ continued his quota bagging with an ascent of the sideways daze problem Right of Validation. He had some goes on Liquidous Line, his gentle slab/groove which only looks like a fearsome highball project (Kay, we know you are reading), but needs a bit more work on this one. At this point I did some further research into CSS, and expanded my theorising on the three most commonly experienced forms of spooge (hot spooge, cold spooge and I’m watching a scary climbing movie spooge[also known to civilians as 'job interview spooge']) Later on, James and Derek tried to repeat Derek’s old problem Non-sequitur but neither had any success and this problem may be upgraded again (it was originally V8, now it looks more like 10).  Meanwhile Pug showed he has the requisite physical attributes by battling his way up Hipster at the end of the day. ZacAtak™ also climbed this problem and James pulled his quota out of the bag with a last gasp second ascent of the low-start to this problem (grade unknown, but it’s probably harder than V5 I reckon). Then it got dark.Ω

Ω Thomas Van Den Berg has repeated Derek Thatcher’s Jardines test piece Tear Drop V10(?) Ω